First Night in Portugal

Zurich was as efficient as you imagine a Swiss-run airport might be. I had a couple of layover hours, so after immigration, I walked around the airport to stretch my legs. I flew from Zurich to Porto on Air Baltic. Who would have thought? I booked through United who passed it on to Swiss Airlines who passed it on to Air Baltic.

The flight was full, the plane was new, and the attendants were great. It was hard sitting for another two and a half hours. I couldn’t see out the windows, which was a bit of a letdown as we left Zurich and flew over the alps and then as we arrived in Porto at the golden hour. I glimpsed the sun reddening the tile roofs and stucco walls and could see the glare of the Atlantic from the other window as we banked.

Normally, I’d take public transportation from the airport and get to my digs as affordably as I can, but today I had booked a ride and Sergio met me at the airport and I couldn’t have been happier and more satisfied with my decision, as I was super tired from the flights and dang hungry.

I showered and changed and then walked around the neighborhood and was entranced by the azuela tiles on the buildings, the mild weather, and the lovely people strolling. I was recommended to go to the Cafe Santiago, which was crowded and with a lengthy wait for tables, but I was sat at the bar right away. Everyone was eating the Fancesca Santiago (their specialty), but I couldn’t do it. It was a bit of a gut bomb, but those who ate it said it was great.

Here’s a breakdown, bottom to top: a bed of French fries + toasted white bread + grilled iberico ham + cheese + a sausage patty + a beef loin burger + more cheese + toasted white bread + cheese slices + a fried egg — all covered with a ladle of gravy.

Instead, I had a puppy. Two, actually. A puppy (caccarone) is like a hot dog, but simpler. A long thin bun with a long thin sausage patty, two slices of cheese, all toasted on a panini grill. No condiments or other distractions. That and a half bottle of Quinta Avelada white. Yum.

I walked home through the neighborhood via a different path and it was also very pretty, with the churches illuminated so that their intricate azuela scenes from the Bible were highlighted.

I stopped off at a gelateria and had a delicious small cup of hazelnut and chocolate gelato with a macaron on top. Then I headed home.

I tried to assemble my bike but kept dropping things and I worried that I’d wake the people below me, so i put it off till the morning. The night, however, was not destined to be a comfortable one.

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